Surfing for me is the beginning of a routine and I find I am more productive in a routine, and also with resetting my thoughts. I surf early in the morning around 4:30 and then it gives me a clear head to attack what else is in the day and it’s just so much fun.
Why do you love surfing?
I love surfing because it is a reset. A reset of your thoughts, reset of your body, a bit of a detox and a cleanse. I guess it straightens you out when you do a bit too many naughty things?
What kind of naughty things you do?
Eating candy and drinking soft drinks. I got involved in surfing because I lived near a beach and I saw the waves turn into a tube, and I saw people in the tubes, and I thought that looks pretty cool!
Are you not afraid of sharks?
I am terrified of sharks, but you learn to understand that they are there, and you build a relationship with them and avoid them because they don’t really want to eat you, they are just confused and scared.